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Turkish Cheese: An Interview

Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:16:38 -0400

How did you come to write about Turkish cheese?
I observed that Turks themselves were not curious or passionate when it came to their own cheeses – mostly they ate them at breakfast and the vast majority only ate “beyaz peynir” or had maybe a “tulum” cheese to accompany rakı. All these beautiful and delicious cheeses are mostly unknown around the country! I decided to approach an İstanbul hobby publisher with the idea of a cheese book but eventually partnered with Boyut Yayınevi to publish my manuscript. The book is now in its second printing.

What was your approach in researching this field?
I divided Turkey into east and west and made two separate research trips to each area of the country. I followed my nose and taste buds to local markets, to mountain villages, to stores selling cheeses and followed interesting leads that turned up along my cheese trail. As is usual in Turkey, numerous people were helpful and enthusiastic. Most cheeses fell into groups by their regions, towns/cities or even hamlets. Broad differences like tulum or teneke/cow’s milk and ewe’s milk/herbed (otlu) cheeses are also discussed in the book that is primarily devoted to cheeses made from raw (unpasteurized) milk.

Can you give us three examples of relatively unknown and unique cheeses you came across during your research in Turkey?
Just for its appearance alone (it looks somewhat like witches’ hair or uncarded wool!), civil peyniri is quite unique although not well known outside of Erzincan or Sivas. Sünme peyniri from Antakya also is interesting with a stringy, elastic appearance. Braided or örme cheese found in Diyarbakır benefits from being soaked in hot water to rinse away some of the salt and encourage it to release its flavor. Sürk from Antakya/Hatay resembles an oversized orange strawberry. It is fiery hot and somewhat dry and crumbly but absolutely in a class of its own for shape, flavor and color. Turkey’s cheeses that should be exported and appreciated by the world are Erzincan, Bolu, Ezine, Edirne, the better known Kaşar cheese as well as Van cheese made with succulent herbs (Van Otlu peyniri).

Can you give us a few examples of interesting discoveries during your research? Techniques, places, tastes..
The most interesting discovery was Turkey’s amazing migratory peoples who take their herds seasonally up and down between lowlands and mountain pastures and plateaus (yayla). This is, sadly, a dwindling way of life but these people are traditional, stoic and a fascinating part of Turkey’s culture and history. Nobody else in Turkey so perfectly illustrates the connection between food and the history of civilization.
The formation of blue cheese was a wonderful discovery. Not ‘injected’ spores like most other blue-vein cheeses, but a happy accident of nature when air leaks into a ‘seam’ in a tulum cheese.
Goats who ate the bark of cedar trees at high altitudes produced milk with a slightly greenish tinge and the yoghurt and cheese made from this milk really has a distinct ‘coniferous’ taste.
There are also interesting traditions surrounding the practices of making cheese. For example, the exact minute or second for adding the rennet (maya) in the cheese-making process is the domain of the senior matriarch of the family, a tradition that she passes down to a daughter or her daughter-in-law.

Did you come across any unique techniques used in production of cheese in Turkey?
Not really, because most European or North American cheeses are produced with a soft or hard rind. Turkey also doesn’t make soft-mold cheeses like Brie and Camembert. Only Kaşar, as well as the Kaşkaval from Trakya, uses a ripening process that creates a hard rind similar to Cheddar. However, I found the tulum method of making cheese (packing the cheese into an animal hide) to be quite unique.
Although you won’t, unfortunately, find this in stores or supermarkets, the production of potted or çömlek or testi cheeses ripened in the dark in earthenware jugs is also distinct to Turkey where many families still make cheeses for their own use this way (the best I ever tasted was from Erzincan).
Another interesting practice that is unique to Turkey is to have cheeses like Civil or Gaziantep cheese that must be soaked in hot (or boiling) water to make them creamy and edible.

What are your favorite Turkish dishes that exemplify the quality and taste of Turkish cheese?
I don’t think Turkey has enough dishes that use cheese as an ingredient. I would love to see these cheeses used for more than pizza toppings or as a breakfast food. But I love the traditionally cooked pancake, or gözleme/katmer, with plenty of cheese included. It is probably not everyone’s favorite with its solid, stomach-lining properties but I am very fond of mıhlama, the corn bread and cheese dish made in the Black Sea region. Of course, the best dish with cheese is künefe, a dessert that uses the special type of melting cheese found in Antakya.

We thank Suzanne Swan for this interview and for sharing her interesting discoveries about Turkish cheese with our readers.
2011 Copyright. Foods of Turkey TM
Suzanne Swan’s picture above was provided by Mrs. Swan and is used with permission.

Turkish Cheese 101

Wed, 8 Jun 2011 07:00:20 -0400

In the first article featuring Turkish cheeses, we will explore the most common varieties around Turkey. You will find these in any region, town and city of Turkey, widely sold and popular among the Turkish consumers.
Beyaz Peynir (White Cheese)
The king of the Turkish breakfast table, this white cheese is the indispensable staple of the Turkish breakfast, and even dinner tables across the country. One cannot think of Turkish breakfast without white cheese, a cheese similar to “feta”. Made from sheep’s milk, this cheese also known as “Teneke peyniri” or tin cheese as it is made and sold in tins, is mostly crumbly in texture, salty and quite white as its name states. Turkish housewives commonly leave the store or market bought cheese in water to remove some of the salt before serving. On the breakfast table, the cheese is the perfect accompaniment to slices of cucumber, tomatoes and some olives. It is the most popular ingredient for the savory pastries (börek) of Turkish cuisine. In addition, white cheese takes its place at the rakı (traditional Turkish alcoholic beverage, also known as “lion’s milk”) table, along with a wide variety of simple and tasty meze’s (tapas or small appetizer plates). Two towns in Turkey, Edirne and Ezine (near Çanakkale) are famous for their white cheese and you may see the popular and famous white cheese also sold under the name of “Edirne” or “Ezine” giving it the region’s name.

Kaşar Peyniri (Also known as Kasseri or Kashkaval)
Old or aged (eski) and fresh (taze) kasseri or kasar cheese is another staple of the Turkish table. Kasar, a yellow, semi firm cheese made from sheep’s milk is a popular choice for sandwiches as it can be sliced and melted nicely with its relatively firm consistency. Fresh kasar is a great choice for the pachanga borek. it is also the popular choice for Turkish toast, or “pane” (fried cheese, first coated with egg, then breadcrumbs and fried).

Tulum Peyniri (Cheese Made in Animal Skin)
Tulum means sheep’s skin or simply, skin in Turkish. The cheese made with sheep and cow and some times, goat milk takes its name from the method of its production. The milk curd is let to rest in animal skin during its preparation. The cities of Erzincan and Izmir are among of the key cities famous for their tulum cheese. Most commonly, you will find this cheese served at larger restaurants before a meal, alongside fresh butter, walnuts and a warm pide (Turkish fluffy bread similar but puffier than the pita bread). It is hard to resist but many of us simply can’t resist to stuff ourselves with this delicious spread even before the waiter takes down our order for the main meal.
Meltem Cervantes
2011 Copyright. Foods of Turkey TM

Turkish Olive Oil: An Interview

Fri, 22 Apr 2011 22:08:58 -0400

What differentiates Turkish olives and olive oil from others around the world? How is Turkey placed in the overall world production/market of olive and olive oil production?
Though many different kinds of olives exist in Turkey, the Ayvalik variety called ‘Adremittion’ which tastes very much like the Italian, Tuscan products, is popular around the world. In Turkey, we now have 100 million olive trees and another 100 million new ones are coming into harvest gradually. We will soon have the highest number of trees in the world after Spain. On the other hand, the consumption is not that high. Greeks consume more than 20 kilos a year where Turks consume only 2 kilos max.   What types of olive/olive oils are available in Turkey? What methods in producing olive oil are available in Turkey?
Extra virgin, virgin and riviera are available in Turkey. Mostly continuous press systems are used. The taste of oil changes depending on the attention paid to the good agricultural and industrial practices.

Which regions are the most famous and biggest producers of olives/olive oil in Turkey?
Bay of Edremit, Canakkale, Akhisar, Izmir, Aydin in the Aegean Region.  Mardin, Gaziantep, Kilis and Antakya in South East Anatolia.

When selecting olives for your olive oil, what do you evaluate and what are your selection criteria?
My objective is to achieve very low acidity without losing the antioxidant values of the olive oil while having the harmony of the aroma, bitterness and piquancy. I prefer early harvest olives that are not yet black.

What should a consumer look for when buying olive oil?
I suggest that they should look for the lowest acidity with a good balance of flavor, bitterness and piquancy. My favorites are the early harvest ones. Some people might prefer the presentation in a bottle but let it be known that, the metal will preserve the richness of olive oil better.

Are there any specific Turkish dishes that highlight the olive oil and its quality?
There are too many to list. Fried eggs and cold vegetables highlight the quality of olive oil. And Turkish dolma, of course! A good spaghetti with olive oil and garlic sauce is also irresistible.

Are there any foods you came across during your travels, which were very memorable for you and changed the way you look at local olive oil and how it is used in regional Turkish cooking?
There is a unique plant called “arap saçı” in Ayvalik. I love arap saçı sautéed in olive oil with onions and served with an egg on top, decorated with red pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste. Once the egg is barely set, it is served over toasted rye bread and drizzled with olive oil while it is still warm. Of course, it is served with Turkish tea. It is a not-to-be missed dish if you ever visit my home town Ayvalik.

2011 Copyright. Foods of Turkey TM
Rengin Suar’s picture above was provided by Ms. Suar and is used with permission.

“Ketchup, Mayonnaise, Onion”: Turkish Paris

Sat, 2 Oct 2010 20:23:32 -0400

I am on a mission to explore Turkish Paris, for all it has to offer, the best of Turkish cuisine you can get anywhere in this city. With a large Turkish population in Paris, it is not surprising to see the local Turkish men and women seek to cook and eat the dishes they know. So, this mission is a search for the best neighborhood to buy the unique ingredients of the Turkish cuisine and get you closer to the best stores for Turkish products.

As I get out of the metro Saint Denis, I am standing in front of a monumental arch known as Porte Saint-Denis, that marks the beginning of a street that is my target destination. Rue de Fbg. St Denis is lined with many stores and restaurants with Turkish names, welcoming me to a home away from home. It is still early in the morning so the stores are just starting to open their doors and restaurants setting up tables. So, I walk into a typical French cafe for a quick coffee and croissant. As soon as my coffee arrives, so do two gentlemen. They stand right next to me to continue on their discussion, to my surprise, in Turkish. As their heated conversation cools off, I speak up; “Excuse me. I am doing research on Turkish food shopping in Paris. Would you mind if I asked you a few questions?”. In a few minutes, we are in a deep conversation. Hasan, a Turkish lawyer who has been living in Paris for many years, has apparently developed a strong opinion about how our cuisine is represented outside of Turkey.

Like any Turkish man, Hasan is also a football fan so his long winded speech about Turkish cuisine brings us to soccer, as expected. He says, “I was at a soccer game once. Turkey played against Cameroon. Lots of fans from both sides filled the large stadium. Every time Cameroon scored, there was a loud applause and a repeated slogan I couldn’t understand. After the game ended and Cameroon won, we headed to the Turkish neighborhood for a snack.” Hasan continued, “As we were waiting for our doner ekmek (Turkish gyro sandwich), here it was, the same slogan again, right outside of the Turkish fast food restaurant. Cameroon fans kept repeating; “Ketchup, Mayonnaise, L’Oignon!”. The Aha moment. In Paris, hundreds of Turkish fast food restaurants serving doner sandwiches offer this popular street food with three accompaniments; ketchup, mayonnaise and onions. As soon as you order the traditional Turkish fast food in Paris, you are always asked “Ketchup, mayonnaise or onion with that?” So our soccer opponents are making fun of us, with our food. This is how Turkish culture and Turkish cuisine are known to them.” His frustration is growing as he continues, “But our cuisine has so much more to offer.” I couldn’t agree more, Hasan bey!

Before I leave the cafe, I ask my new friends for some tips on the local Turkish restaurants and stores they patronize. With Hasan the lawyer as my guide, we walk around visiting Gunes and Rodi, well stocked Turkish supermarkets (Gunes also makes Turkish pita bread in its stone oven right in the store), Merinos, a Turkish butcher with friendly staff and Baklavaci Riza, a baklava store hidden in one of the back streets all within a block radius. Hasan also points out a few Turkish coffee houses, the traditional kind women don’t usually patronize. No doubt I have found Turkish Paris. Whatever ingredient you are looking for, everything you miss, you can find here. In addition to the Paris version of a Turkish doner ekmek with ketchup, mayonnaise and onion, there are plenty of other options that will better represent our cuisine.

Puff Pastry, Filo Dough or Yufka? Choices for Borek

Fri, 3 Sep 2010 22:31:05 -0400

Turkish yufka, fresh and hand rolled sheets of dough, is the original and essential ingredient for making Turkish boreks or stuffed pastries. Individual sheets rolled out thin by hand and then layered with butter and other ingredients create the original recipes of boreks you will find in Turkey. However, many brands in and outside of Turkey have been allowing us to create delicious dishes and pastries a lot more easily and without having to roll the sheets on our own. Sheets of filo dough or pastry sheets can now be used to make many of your versions of the classics such as baklava and cigarillo borek you will find at any Turkish restaurant. If you choose, you can also make phyllo pastry dough at home.

Neighborhood Watch: London’s Turkish Neighborhoods

Thu, 22 Jul 2010 07:38:17 -0400

Neighborhoods and How to Get There
There are two dominantly Turkish neighborhoods in London. These are Haringey, and Hackney. The shopping streets in these neighborhoods are filled with markets and restaurants, small and large, many with Turkish names. Mezze shops, butchers, barbershops, bake shops (firin) and of course many eateries, all with Turkish clientele, staff and goods line up these streets. The food markets are impressive in quality and variety of products, with any Turkish ingredient and product we could think of available. Fresh produce, breads and spices are all within reach.   In Haringey, the shopping street is Green Lanes. In Hackney, the Stoke Newington High Street is the one to stroll on, shop and finish off with a truly authentic meal.

To go to Haringey, take the Central Line to Holborn, then Piccadily line to Manor House. After that, you will be at a walking distance to the shopping street Green Lanes. To get to Hackney, use Dalston Kingsland or Stoke Newington rail.

Shops
There are so many Turkish shops and markets that it is quite difficult to select the ones to feature here. They mostly carry the same products. All the markets we visited offered a wonderful and rich selection of products directly from Turkey. Turkish Market Center (89 Ridley Road) in Hackney was the first we visited. It was so large that it is probably more appropriate to call it a supermarket. It had a full service butcher as well. Turkish Gazoz (clear, bubbly drink) and Dut Kurusu (dried mulberries) grabbed our attention. Later in Haringey, we stopped by Dostlar (425-427 Green Lanes) and Tintas (385-387 Green Lanes) to check out their selections before we had a snack break.

Turkish Pistachios: What is so special about them?

Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:00:40 -0400

The favorite nut of the Near East and Central Asia, the pistachio nut, has a delicate but unmistakable flavor. Its vividly green color makes it the perfect ingredient for the baklava filling and presentation. The Gaziantep pistachio is different from other pistachios in every respect. As you will appreciate, the chemical composition of the soil, the climate, the water content and other factors have a strong effect on the quality of the pistachio. According to an analysis of the chemical composition, the local Gaziantep nut has 5.5% water, 58% oil, 19% protein, 2.8% cellulose, 2.5% ash and 2.5% extract without nitrogen. This nut is also a nutritious food rich in oil and protein.

Pistachio terebinthus is used as a rootstock for raising pistachio trees. The pistachio tree is resistant to extreme hot and cold, but it doesn’t like rainy and foggy weather. On the other hand, it can be raised in calcerous, rocky and stony soils in which some other fruits can not grow.

In baklava, a special type of pistachio nut called “Boz Fıstık (white speckle)” is used. This special variety is picked early, before it is ripe. Normally 300 gr. kernel can be obtained from 1 kg. of pistachios. However, if it is harvested early, only 150 gr. of kernel is obtained. Through early harvesting, a high oil ratio is achieved along with a distinctive taste of the baklava made with it.

The harvest season for pistachios is usually at the end of August, early September. Families work together, along with other villagers that help out during this season. The daily harvest starts after sunrise, continues after a lunch break, until 3 to 3:30 pm in the afternoon. According to the customs of the region, the head of the family or the land owner usually sacrifices a sheep, once the harvest is complete to thank those involved and celebrate together.

There is a saying in Turkish; “Is it from the soil or the water?” Pistachio nut pays its debt to the land it grows on by being the most delicious pistachio of the world. Its distinctive taste is critical as a core ingredient to the region’s world famous baklava.

Filiz Hosukoglu
Prepared for Foods of Turkey

Neighborhood Watch: Manhattan’s “Bakkals”

Fri, 7 May 2010 12:04:40 -0400

“Bakkal” in Turkish means neighborhood grocery store. With a large population of Turks living in or around Manhattan, there are a few “bakkals” that cater to the needs of this audience, selling the traditional ingredients and products of Turkey for those trying to satisfy their craving away from home. I patronize them often to stock up on the essentials for my Turkish cooking.  These markets are only those within the boundaries of Manhattan but certainly in neighboring areas such as in New Jersey (Paterson) or in Brooklyn (Sheepshead Bay), there are a lot more Turkish stores and communities to be explored. (See our related articles on the side of this page.) But this list is for the impatient cooking enthusiasts like myself, who sometimes has no time or patience to drive to one of the larger Turkish communities for shopping. This is a list of shops I run into, quickly, to find what I consider essential in a matter of a few hours. So here they are with many unique ingredients you have been searching for:

Kalustyan’s
(123 Lexington Avenue, NY NY 10026, 212-685-3451)
The heaven for ethnic food shopper. If you have been living in New York for sometime, you probably already know about Kalustyan’s with a global reputation. The amazing selection of spices, the incredible rack of grains and pulse, nuts, oils, sauces, prepared foods from around the world including a rich selection of products from Turkey, make this store absolutely one of the top destinations to shop for any ethnic food you may be planning to cook without having to go beyond the boundaries of Manhattan. Turkish bulgur, extensive selection of spices, lentils, teas, cheeses, halvah (helva), preserves and jams, spicy sausages (sucuk) are among the vast variety of Turkish products you can find in this ethnic market.

Straight from the Market
(408 E, on the corner of 92nd Street and 1st Avenue)
Turkish owners may think they are under cover, but the rich selection of cheeses, canned vegetables dishes give their cover away. This store is indeed Turkish. Turkish bread and pide (thick, soft pita bread), a rich selection of cheeses, sucuk, canned olive oil dishes, essential spices, bulgur, red pepper and tomato pastes, and a freezer full of frozen Lahmacun (thin Turkish meat pizzas) along with pastırma (Turkish cured, spicy pastrami) make the trip to the eastern end of Upper East Side worthwhile. It is also close to the “bakkal” we feature below.

Fresh from the Farm
(Corner of 96th Street and Lexington Avenue)
A small vegetable market appearance on the outside should not discourage you. A variety of Turkish cheeses including white and kaşar cheeses, canned vegetable dishes, thick Turkish pita bread, various types of nuts including Turkish pistachios along with my favorite apricots, plumb and flavorful, for apricots and cream, are among the finds here. Added bonus is a selection of prepared foods and salads and gözleme, Turkish cheese crepe.

Before you head to these stores, make sure to also review of our article on the Turkish pantry. When you get there, tell them where you heard about them.

Meltem
2010 Copyright. Foods of Turkey