FOODS OF TURKEY
What is the importance of the Southeastern Anatolia in Turkish cuisine?
Many civilizations including Sumerian, Akkadian, Babylonian, Persian, Helenistic, Roman, Arabic, Mongolian and Ottoman have taken residence in the area called Mesopotamia, between the Dicle and Firat rivers. As one would expect, each civilization introduced its own and built on the culture of its predecessors, creating a “melting pot” of cultural and culinary tradition. The geographic conditions, the commerce between Anatolia and its neighbours, and the trade routes going through this region further enhanced the cultural riches of the region. Through this heritage combined with the unique ingredients and produce of what the nature offered, a distinct culinary heritage was created.
What are some of the important ingredients and produce of the Southeastern Anatolia?
Here are a few interesting ingredients and dishes:
Ripe wheat (Firik) is collected when it is still green and dried on fire. When you make a pliaf with it, you can smell the spring and taste the milk in it. Sumac in liquid form is used for dolma and salads, and in dry form, with beans. It brings out the flavors and smells of a dish, and hidden aromas of its ingredients.
Menengiç kahvesi is a coffee made with the fruit of a female tree with the same name. It is ground and used for making coffee, mixed with water and sugar, just like the way Turkish coffee is made. This coffee is not only caffeine free but it also known to have health benefits for the respiratory system.
Acur, popular vegetable of spring, cooked with firik or rice is undeniably one of the most popular dish in get togethers. Summer squash (haylan kabagi), a summer vegetable, is used fresh during the summer and sundried for summer squash dolma in the winter. Green Gaziantep pepper, with its silky but crisp texture, is great to serve with Turkish ground meat pizza (lahmacun). Haspir, a weed with orange color adds color and flavor to potatoes in yogurt. It is also an indispensable ingredient for the savory pastry (borek) made with rice. Eggplant common in the summer is dried hanging on a string to cook stuffed eggplant in the winter. When the time comes, it is first soaked in hot water, softened and then stuffed. This process creates a unique flavor that is unforgettable.
Sweet and sour pomegranate sauce made with sweet, sour pomegranates of Oğuzeli is great in salads and adds an incredible flavor to lahmacun (minced meat pizza) made with onions in the winter.
Katmer is a breakfast dish that requires skillful hands, early harvest pistachios, cream made with the milk of the local sheep feeding on the valleys of the region and a little bit of sugar. To become a Katmer chef, one must perfect his skill over 15 years, to prepare the paper thin sheet of dough, without any tool. He should not only perfect his skills for the technique required, but also be able to distinguish and choose good ingredients.
Liver kebab is prepared with cubes of sheep liver placed on a skewer and cooked on a wood burning grill. It is served between fresh bread, with parsley, onions, accompanied with Turkish bean salad (piyaz). Fans of liver kebab head down to their favorite liver shops between 5 and 7 am in the morning to capture the freshness essential for a great kebab. Bone-in sheep cooked for 13 hours, served with boiled rice, broth, garlic, ground pepper is a popular breakfast dish that keeps you full and going for the whole day.
Interview: Filiz Hösükoğlu
May 27, 2010
Quick Profile: Filiz Hösükoğlu
A well known culinary researcher and writer Filiz Hösükoğlu has been an indispensable resource to many international researchers, cookbook authors and media professionals during their research on Turkish Cuisine. Some of these researchers were Saveur magazine’s food editor Todd Coleman, The Culinary Institute of America, Conde Nast Traveler, former New York Times editor, correspondent and bureau chief Stephen Kinzer, authors Paula Wolfert, Lucy and Greg Malouf. A native of Gaziantep, Filiz is an expert on the region’s cooking, local dishes and speciality products such as pistachios. One of Filiz’s many projects to promote the cultural and historical heritage of Southeastern Anatolia was selected third in the Culinary Travel category for Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in 2009. (http://seanatolianheritage.org/.)
Filiz, a Mechanical Engineer who found her life passion in food, plans to compile her research in Turkish cuisine into a book soon. Her dream is to curate a documentary about the regional culinary traditions and techniques. She is currently collaborating with Istanbul Culinary Institute and will be hosting a culinary tour into Gaziantep, this fall.
The meat dishes of the region are quite famous. What is it that distinguishes the region’s meat dishes from those of other regions?
Where the meat comes from and how it is processed are very important. The Southeastern sheep feeds on the valleys of the region and then transferred to feeding facilities that use barley and straw for two months. This process and staging impact the taste of the meat significantly. The next important step is about how the meat is processed in the hands of skillful butchers. A good butcher knows for what dish, what type of meat and what part of the animal is most suitable.
What are some of the regional meat dishes?
For home cooking, the meat dishes can be grouped into two categories: kebabs and meat dishes made in a pot. Kebabs most popular in the region are those made with plain or marinated cubes of meat, ground meat, ground meat with red pepper paste, with garlic, onions, parsley, apple etc and eggplant kebab. Meat dishes cooked in a pot are tender meat in garlicky meat stock (beyran), potato in yogurt sauce (yogurtlu patates), chopped eggplant in sour sauce with mint (doğrama), zucchini stuffed with meat (kabak oturtması), lamb chops with quince (taraklık tavası), chick-pea size meatballs in sour sauce (ekşili ufak köfte), raw meatball (çiğ köfte), Uzbek pilaf (özbek pilavı) and bulgur meat balls steamed in strainer (süzek yapması).
What is your favorite regional dish?
One of my favorites is a purslane dish called Pirpirim aşı in Turkish or with its national name, Semizotu yemeği. It is not only delicious but its ingredients such as purslane, garbanzos, bulgur, mint, garlic, onion, lemon juice etc.,are also quite nutritious. The Omega-3 content of purslane is beneficial for heart health, and also has additional cholesterol reducing benefits. It also cleans the blood.
Are there any chefs that have inspired you?
First and foremost, a chef I most admire is my mom. She prepares everything, every dish as if she is preparing it for a guest, with utmost patience and attention to detail. Among the foreign chefs, I admire Julia Child. While she provided guidance on cooking in a scientific manner, she also presented taking pleasure from cooking as an essential ingredient to cooking.
Through your work, you have met many international researchers, cookbook authors and chefs. What do you think about the general perceptions of foreigners about Turkish cuisine?
Many researchers coming to Turkey already have high expectations and they are still surprised with what they find here: the richness of the ingredients as well as cooking techniques, the variety in flavors and especially the Turkish hospitality they come across when they are presented with dishes and specialties cooked at Turkish homes. This has such an incredible influence on these researchers that most of them come back for a second or third time to try to capture and digest it all.
The important characteristics of our cuisine that draw international interest are: local ingredients, the heritage of recipes transferred from one generation to the other and the attention paid to steps and techniques when preparing these recipes along with the rich variety of the cuisine overall. Sometimes, starting with only one ingredient, we can achieve a surprising variety. One example for this is bulgur. Especially in Southeastern Anatolia, this ingredient shows up in every meal. But the different ingredients used and the variety of dishes produced are further proof to the imagination that is inherent in Turkish cuisine.
Another interesting discovery for most researchers and authors is how nature and natural ingredients and riches of the region are respected, used with slight variations from one village to another and how, with a natural intuition, the locals aim to get most out of everything that is produced and used, and waste is kept to a minimum.
All rights reserved. Copyright 2010 Foods of Turkey.
CULINARY TOUR TO GAZIANTEP
Meet Filiz, witness baklava making at a local workshop in Gaziantep, visit a local village during pistachio harvest season and taste many regional specialty dishes.
Join us this September in Gaziantep!
For information on dates and program, please e-mail us at tours@foodsofturkey.com
Gaziantep and Southeastern Anatolia: Home of Unforgettable Baklava and Pistachios
Is there anyone in the world who doesn’t know what baklava is or wouldn’t recognize this flaky, buttery, sweet piece of heavenly pastry from the Middle East? Probably not. But not many people outside of Turkey know that the Turkish home of baklava and the unforgettable pistachios that make these pastries so memorable is Gaziantep in the Southeastern Anatolia region of Turkey. This region is also known for many tasty kebabs, spicy specialties, bulgur dishes and much more, making it one of the top regions for its contribution to the culinary heritage of Turkey.
We recently interviewed Filiz Hösükoğlu, a food researcher and author from Gaziantep about the culinary riches of this region, its unique dishes and what brings so many food researchers and authors to this region. Here is what she had to say. (For more information on Southeastern Anatolia, its cultural and culinary wonders, make sure to also check out this link for a guide in English, which Filiz helped put together.)
Lahmacun